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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
When you're preparing to buy a home, understanding the difference between pre-qualification and pre-approval can help you navigate the mortgage process with confidence.
Pre-Qualification: Quick Estimate
Pre-qualification is a fast, informal way to get an idea of how much you might be able to borrow. You provide basic financial details—like your income, debts, and estimated credit score—and the lender gives you a rough loan estimate.
Example:
You fill out a short online form and receive a ballpark figure within minutes. No documents or credit checks are required.
Pre-Approval: Verified Buying Power
Pre-approval is a more detailed process. You submit financial documents (such as pay stubs, bank statements, and tax returns), and the lender performs a credit check. Based on this review, you receive a pre-approval letter stating the exact loan amount you're qualified for.
Example:
You meet with a lender, provide your financial paperwork, and after a few days, receive a letter you can use to strengthen your offer when bidding on a home.
Important Note
Neither a pre-qualification nor a pre-approval guarantees final loan approval. Your financial situation will be reviewed again before closing.
Example:
If your income changes or you take on new debt after getting pre-approved, the ender may reassess and deny the loan.
Your credit score is a big deal when it comes to your mortgage rate. The higher your score, the lower your rate—simple as that.
Why it matters:
Even a small difference in your rate can mean big savings over time. Better credit = lower monthly payments.
Quick breakdown:
Excellent credit? You’ll likely get the best rates.
Decent credit? Still good, but your rate might be a bit higher.
Lower credit? You can still qualify, but expect a higher rate.
Tip: Before you apply, check your credit and try to pay down debt. A little effort can go a long way!
What Are Closing Costs?
Closing costs are the fees and expenses you pay when you finalize your home purchase. They cover things like the appraisal, title insurance, loan origination, and more.
How Much Should I Expect to Pay?
Typically, closing costs range from 2% to 5% of the home’s purchase price.
Example:
If you're buying a $600,000 home, closing costs might be anywhere from $12,000 to $30,000.
Heads Up:
Some costs are negotiable, and in some cases, the seller might help cover them—so it’s always worth asking!
The homebuying journey usually takes about 30 to 60 days once you’re under contract—but the full process can take longer depending on your situation.
Here’s a quick breakdown:
Getting pre-approved: A few days
House hunting: A few weeks to a few months
Making an offer and getting your offer accepted: A few days to a week
Closing on the home: Typically 30–45 days
Every buyer’s timeline is a little different, but with the right team and prep, it can go pretty smoothly!
Can I Buy a Home if I’m Self-Employed or Have Irregular Income?
Yes, you can! Being self-employed or having variable income doesn’t mean you can’t buy a home—it just means the lender might ask for a bit more paperwork.
What to expect:
You’ll likely need to show 1–2 years of tax returns, bank statements, and proof that your income is steady enough to handle a mortgage.
Pro tip:
Keep your finances organized and talk to a lender early—they’ll help you figure out what you need.
What's in a Mortgage Paymennt?
Your monthly mortgage payment is made up of a few key parts—think of it like a bundle:
Principal: The part that goes toward paying down your loan.
Interest: What the lender charges you to borrow the money.
Taxes: Property taxes, usually rolled into your monthly payment.
Insurance: Homeowners insurance (and sometimes mortgage insurance) to protect your home and the lender.
Pro tip: You might hear this called “PITI” (Principal, Interest, Taxes, Insurance). It’s all bundled into one monthly payment.
What is a 2-1 buydown, and how does it work?
A 2-1 buydown is a way to temporarily lower your mortgage interest rate for the first two years of your loan.
Here’s how it works:
Year 1: Your interest rate is reduced by 2%.
Year 2: It’s reduced by 1%.
Year 3 and beyond: Your rate goes back to the full original rate.
Example:
If your actual rate is 6%, you’d pay 4% in year one, 5% in year two, and 6% from year three onward.
Who Pays for the Buydown?
Usually, the buydown cost is paid upfront—often by the seller, builder, or even your lender as part of a promotion or negotiation. Sometimes buyers cover it themselves if it helps with affordability early on.
Pro tip:
It’s a great option if you expect your income to grow or want lower payments while settling into your new home.